Success!!!

Remember my cool sewing machine I blogged about last time?  The one with the really scary wiring? Well...guess what came in the mail today??????

This!

This handcrank is one of the made-in-China models with the sloppy paint and terrible casting.  If you can get past the aesthetics, the piece is actually very solid and moves quite smoothly. Not bad for $15. You can buy them here. Also from that same site I bought the contents of the small baggie on the right. The contents include several red spool pin felts, long bobbins, and a replacement tension spring thread guide.

 Luckily my machine has the spoked handwheel - if you want to modify your machine from electric (or treadle) to hand crank, you will need a wheel like this one. Replacements can be purchased at the link I gave you above for the hand crank. Do you see the blurry silver shine below the handwheel on the pillar? That is the hole the crank attaches too. It's a really simple operation - when you see the machine and the crank, it is super obvious how to hook it up. It's sorta like a fork - just by looking at one you can tell which end to hold on to, and which end to stab food with. It is honestly that simple.

Here it is installed. It took me longer to take off the belt and motor than it did to hook this baby up. Did I mention it runs smooth as silk?

 Now onto the thread tensioner. Here it is with the screw off. 

 And here is the spring off

Here are the disks off 

Here is the new spring installed (incorrectly, I may add - I had to adjust it down towards the notch on the left) 

...and here is is all pretty and installed, and in place....

Okay - these pictures are lying to you -  they make it look like everything went together fast and easy...and it was anything but that. The new spring wouldn't catch onto the shaft, so I had to take some jewelry pliers and curl the end of the wire around the shaft more snugly. I should have taken pictures...but I'm just a rebel like that - I don't follow rules.

 The only issue with any of the bits and bobs I bought are these long bobbins. They don't fit into my bobbin winder fully - see how the right end fits into the hub nicely, and the left sticks out? I tried winding one (the winder still works - even with the belt gone), and it got all sloppy and weird on the end that doesn't fit right. I'll have to try my fiddle base and see if it fits that machine.

After some jiggery-buggery with the tensioner, and a new needle, this is the beautiful stitch it makes - this is the front

 Bobbin side - I used red and green thread purposely to see how balanced the stitch is. Click on these pics to enlarge and see how perfect and balanced they are.  All in all I'm really happy I got this machine working! It is such a cute 3/4 machine. I may use this as one of my portables when doing lessons. The only caveat is it skips a stitch once in a while - I'm not sure if that is due to technique (I've never used a hand crank before), or an issue with the machine. I may oil it more and try again. Also I plan to rewire the lamp - I like the crank a lot, but I really think it needs the light. Actually, the cool part about adding a crank is that it's totally reversible. If I decide later I want an electric machine again, I just re-wire in the motor.  Awesome, eh?

Okay - I think I'm over these "look how cool my machines are" posts. Are you ready to see some sewing technique posts?

Well....it will have to wait. A week, at least. I'll be out of town until the 7th of May, so you will just have to contain yourself until then!

Have you ever used a hand crank sewing machine? 

Would you consider using one as a portable? (think about it - I now have a machine I can use in the Festival parking lot if I need to).

Comment below!

Irony

So......remember this?

It's the manual for a sewing machine I don't....er....didn't own.

But I'm getting ahead of myself.

 I wrote about this manual and the machine it came with in my previous post. 

Do you believe in fate? Sometimes I think I do. This weekend was one of those times. Saturday I found myself in an antique store helping a student find a reasonably-priced treadle machine (we found her one!) As I scoured the store, I found this:

barn-fresh and uncleaned - irony, coincidence, or fate?

Yep - it's an ACTUAL 128. 

Made May 26th 1925. 

the serial number tells me so: ISMACS serial numbers

My arsenal of cleaning supplies - missing in this pic: Murphy's Oil Soap. I have great luck using Murphy's to clean machines without damaging the decals. After they are clean I polish them with a thin coat of sewing machine oil. This machine was sticking a little bit when I turned the handwheel - a few drops of oil, and she now moves nice and smoothly.

Beautiful bentwood case - the scratches are actually very minor - the flash makes them look worse than they are. No missing veneer

Check out that key - the dealer I bought this from filed down an old house key to fit. I love weird, quirky things like this that individualize a piece. 

And like this - the original owner's name and phone number engraved on the plate covering the shuttle

even came with a second filed-down key. I think I will buy an actual replacement, but these rigged keys just make me smile

The knee controller - no foot controller here to clutter up the floor. Very serious and industrial looking. Was this machine originally on a stand, or were you meant to put her on a table? The knee controller is throwing me. Any ideas?

 And now, the caveat:

The scariest wiring I have ever seen (and that is saying a lot!)

I have no idea if this baby works - the wiring scares the crap out of me! Not only is the insulation shredding, it is brittle and hard, No way am I plugging this in!

the weirdo plug is actually in really good condition. I still don't trust it, but it looks cool!

the weirdo plug plugged into the machine (NOT plugged into the wall). ever see one like this?

but she's soooooo preeeeetty!  here's the front plate all shined up

And here she is - all cleaned up and ready for.......

 Ready for what? Do I re-wire? Do I turn it into a hand-crank? Right now I'm leaning toward hand-crank. It might be cool to have a portable hand-crank machine. The decals on this little lady are beautiful, and she seems to work pretty well. Next step is to thread her up and see if I can get her to stitch by moving the handwheel manually. If she stitches well enough, the next step is to decide what the next step is.

What do you say - stay electric (update the wiring), or go people-powered (turn into a hand crank)? The nice thing is, neither step is exclusive of the other. If I go hand-crank, I can always go back to electric if I decide I want to later.

The very best part? Once I get this baby working I can use it to wind bobbins for my fiddle base since the mechanisms are identical - except this one actually makes contact with the handwheel.

I swear I don't collect sewing machines.

Not on purpose, anyway.

Opinions? Give them to me in the comments below.

Oddities (or, the REAL fun in reasearch)

I just want to start out by saying I do NOT collect sewing machines. I mean, really - I just don't. Absolutely, positively, beyond a shadow of a doubt do NOT. Not in this, or any lifetime, reality, or parallel universe. After all, they are big, and bulky, and take up a lot of space. I mean, how many sewing machines can I actually use at one time anyway??? That's right - one. Okay, maybe two - three tops....but realistically, mostly one (or two).

That is why I am proud to say I only own the essentials: three Singers, one Kenmore, one Brother, two Husqvarna, one Necchi, and one Janome. (Do I count the Japanese machine for sale in the shop?)

Oh crap.

To be fair, you can't really count one of the Husqvarna or the Janome - the first is a serger, and the other my embroidery machine.....

So that only leaves.....<gets out calculator>

Oh CRAP.

Okay, okay - I don't intentionally collect sewing machines. (or coffee makers, or blenders - but that's a post for another day!)

All but two of my machines are vintage - the embroidery machine and the Husqvarna sewing machine are newer. Everything else is at least 20 years old. I thrift a lot, and every once in a while when I see a great old machine under a pile of detritus at an op shop (or antique store, or estate sale...), it will somehow magically follow me home.

Some of the fun in having these great vintage machines follow me home is that I get to research them once they are here. If you don't know, I am a huge history nerd, and I love to learn all I can.

I mean, I make Elizabethan and mid-century clothing, I collect and resell antiques and bits of mid-century modern decor, I even have a stash of mid-century clothing I am trying to talk myself into selling (I will never, ever, ever be that size - why am I holding on to them?), and don't get me started on my 1950s mannequin with the bullet bra breasts, or my Edwardian dress maker form - who in the world would have thought I was a history nerd? Go figure.

That brings me to the sewing machine manual at the top of this page. Isn't it fabulous? It came with the machine inside this beautiful case:

The machine is plugged in for more testing - I just set the lid on top for this picture. The red faux alligator is separating a little bit from the wooden case, but overall it is in great condition. Very sound and strong - no structural damage, and both latches are functional. The blue plastic handle is also nice aesthetically with the blue and red faux leather.

When I first brought her home, I did research on the Singer 127 and 128 models. I learned that they date to about the 1920s. Looking at the design and colors of the case, that could be about right. When I first saw the case my kneejerk reaction was 1940s, but it could be from the 20s...

I know, I know - faux leather.... in the 20s? Stick with me here - don't get ahead of the story.

The machine still has its shuttle and one bobbin (a big selling point when I saw it in the store). I threaded the machine up, sewed with it a bit, and then immediately packed it away - satisfied I had made a good purchase. I paid $50 for it, which I thought was a fair retail price. So it sat for quite a while in my weaving studio....

And then one day I was doing research on the Singer 66 treadle I mentioned in a previous post.  I decided it would be fun to get the 127 out and compare decals on the two old Singers (since they were of similar vintage, or so I thought)....

...and I was shocked to see this.

What's wrong with this picture???

Well, you see - I was expecting a square base, like on my 66... but this has what is called the fiddle base (because of its shape - isn't that a great way to describe it?). Now, if you don't know, the fiddle base is indicative of an older machine that the 127.

Like, 30 years older.

Exhibit A - the fiddle base.

the serial number and the decals (colloquially known as "Victorian") dates this machine to the 1890's 

Here is a website of a 127 so you can see how similar they are: ISMACS Singer 127 page

Clearly, I don't have a 127, I have a V2.  Actually, functionally and aesthetically the machines are almost identical.

Almost.

The biggest aesthetic difference is the decal set they would have shipped with, and the fiddle bed. The biggest functional difference (other than any mechanical changes under the hood that I know nothing about) is that this was meant to be a treadle machine only. It was never intended to be electrified.

Don't believe me? then tell me exactly how that bobbin winder is supposed to work.  Yep - that's right, it is supposed to be placed against a leather treadle belt. Which is non-existent with the after market motor being mounted on the back.

Here is the motor. Incidentally, when researching the motor's origins, I found a Japanese Sewtex machine in a case that looked very similar to my red and blue case.....

For those of you keeping score at home, Sewtex was a Japanese company that made high quality knock-off sewing machines and after-market motors after WWII.

That's right after WWII.....

 I'm so utterly confused.....

Here is the light - a brilliant add-on (ha-ha...get it? "BRILLIANT" add-on?
<crickets chirping>
You know...'cuz it's a light...and lights are brill...
oh, nevermind).
<AHEM> The light is attached to the back of the arm, so it throws off better light and is less likely to burn the user than a front-mounted light.

The front plate - all threaded up and ready to go! I haven't cleaned all of the bits yet, so that is fingerprints and schmutz you are seeing - not corrosion. Let's just pretend I cleaned her up all professional-like before I took pictures of her with my fancy DSLR that picks up EVERY detail.

the tensioner - slightly different than the model 127, but functions pretty much the same

Tensioner and access plate

 So there she is - my little conundrum. She is like a Mannerist painting - more questions than answers. My little sleuthing expedition has brought me to the following conclusions (that may be terribly wrong): The machine is from the 1890s. At some point it was taken out of its treadle base by a handyman, wired for electricity, and then put into a carrying case. Because of the motor used, I would guess this was done some time in the mid-to-late 40s. Why it was eventually paired with a manual from a 127 is beyond me. I did buy it at a reputable antique store, so maybe the seller knew a thing or two about machines. It is possible she knew that mechanically the two machines were identical enough and the mis-matched manual would still be useful to the new owner.

One burning question I have is exactly how one was supposed to wind a bobbin once the switch to electricity was made? I tried to use a spare sewing machine belt to hook the motor to the winder, but I just could not get enough tension on the belt. I was able to wind the bobbin full, but only with a wee bit of jiggery-buggery and whole lot of swearing because the danged belt kept slipping off of the bobbin winder. My better half and I may make a special belt for bobbin winding out of leather - sort of like a treadle belt - so I can wind the bobbin more efficiently.

I was originally going to resell this machine, but it is so unusual (and makes such a beautiful stitch), that I may just have to keep it for a while....I have a buttonholer that will work with it, and may just have to pick up a zigzag attachment as well. I can't remember if this machine came with any extra presser feet - I will have to look through my stash to see what will work. It is a standard Singer straight shank machine, so it should be easy to find parts for (unlike my 66 which takes the specialized presser feet that screw on the back).

 I guess I found my excuse to buy a puzzle box full of attachments!

It IS getting a bit claustrophobic in here with all of these danged machines, though....

<sigh>

What is your favorite machine to sew with? Would you prefer a great vintage all-mechanical machine, or a new, sparkly electronic machine with a billion decorative stitiches?  Any suggestions for the bobbin-winder on this machine?

Please comment below :)

Is the "Mad Men" style craze a thing of the past? Furthermore....do I care???

The show Mad Men has been a force in our culture since 2007. When it first hit the airwaves, a stunned crowd was hit squarely in the face with a show the likes of which had never been seen before. I have read several blogs that have touched on the Mad Men phenomenon. Some bloggers love (like Gertie), and some are not-so-much (like Peter). Both are very respected bloggers in the community (if you haven't checked out their respective fashion/sewing blogs, you really need to), and both have valid reasons for feeling the way they do. As for me, I'm more in the Gertie camp (which has absolutely nothing to do with me being a total fan-girl) - when I first saw the show, it took my breath away! I couldn't get enough of the characters, the sets, the acting and most of all....the fashion! I have always been obsessed with 50-60s fashions (I was dying my hair Joan Harris red and teasing it into a bouffant in the 90s!); suddenly here was a show that seemed like it was tailor made for ME! It seems lots of people felt that way as the show became a cultural phenomenon. The cast and crew have received several awards (loads of awards for costume design) over the years. All of a sudden pencil skirts, flowing dresses, cardigan sweaters, and all sorts of other "period-style" clothing, makeup, and accessories came back into fashion. Even pattern manufacturers got in on the craze -  the big names like Simplicity, McCalls, Vogue, Burda and Butterick all started to market either reproductions of vintage patterns from past lines, or vintage inspired clothing (or both!). 

Now, I am not one to generally fall into trends - I'm just a rebel like that. I like to march to the beat of my own drummer - and all that sort of malarkey. However, this was a trend I could really sink my teeth into. Subsequently I have fallen full-force into the gravitational pull of vintage and vintage reproduction patterns. Every time I have wanted to make a new vintage or vintage-inspired garment, I would Google the pattern number to see pictures of fellow seamsters who had already completed the project.  If you are interested in making your own clothes, I highly recommend you do this. You can then see what the garment will look like on someone with a similar build - this will serve to illustrate if the lines will be at all flattering. Also, you can discover any fit/construction issues by reading that person's pattern review/blog. Check out this site: http://sewing.patternreview.com/ if you can get past the terrible 1996 formatting, it is a wonderful treasure trove of information.

That brings me to today. I'm looking for a project to keep me busy until the Next Big Thing comes along. Plus I have some holes in my summer/spring wardrobe I would like to fill.  Mostly I am looking for a fun, comfortable everyday dress I can wear to work, as well as around the house when entertaining casually. I started to go through my stash of patterns, and found a few candidates to investigate.

the stash

My pattern stash may be modest, but it serves me well. keep in mind this is only my commercial patterns - any heavily modified or self-drafted patterns are kept elsewhere.

Here are the candidates - a nice mixture of summery options - some vintage reissue/inspired, some not

Here is the haul from my last thrifting mission (missing - 4 yards of the palest pink satin - more on that later) The two rightmost pieces are actually vintage bedsheets. My grandmother used to use her worn bedsheets for quits and aprons, and I have always heard that sheets were often repurposed into dresses. I don't know how much fabric comes on a standard sheet, but I thought they were both really cute prints. At $1.50 each, they seemed like a good gamble!

And that brings me to this combination - an old sheet, and Simplicity 1459. I bought this pattern recently, and I think it may be a new release. That being said, when I Googled the pattern number, I only found one person who had made and reviewed it. I don't know about you, but this seems like the quintessential 50s-60s dress, so I was surprised there weren't multiple examples of this made up on a variety of blogs. I know they labeled it "1950", but I think it is more early 1960s because of the higher hemline - what do you think? It's a basic shirtwaist, but I love the collar and the really full skirt. When I pulled the pattern from the stash, I immediately thought of this sheet.  How cute would this dress be made up in this fabric? Something about the cut of this dress demands an ultra-feminine fabric, or fun novelty print. The sheet is very old and thin (notice how you can see the roses from the layer underneath), so I will have to fully line the dress.  Anyone who knows me knows I can't be trusted with an all-white dress - so I may have to overdye this sheet. Maybe a pale pink? Or maybe a hot pink layer underneath with help disguise the inevitable light stains?

Like this piece of hot pink in my stash (let's just ignore that ugly white thread hanging out on the right and pretend I took a really beautiful, professional picture - ok?). I have completely forgotten what I originally bought it for, so it can totally be repurposed for this project. There are only 2 1/2 yards of the hot pink, but it is just a broadcloth, so I can easily get more. Funny how with the hot pink fabric you can more clearly see the soft pink polka dots on the white background. Very subtle and pretty.

But now I have a problem...when I was digging that hot pink fabric out of its drawer, I found this - another great vintage bedsheet - wouldn't that look great made up into this dress???

Also works with the hot pink fabric as an accent.

And then there is this....this terrific piece of tropical fabric on the right is from Haberman Fabrics in Royal Oak. The fabric on the left is some muslin I dyed to match the print. This would also be perfect for this dress Aaaaaauuurgh!

Now I have to let this sit on my cutting table for a while until I decide. Which combination do YOU like???? (yes, yes - I like the hot pink with the tropical too. Stop complicating matters!)

  Either way, stay tuned to see this dress come together. I think it will be a great addition to my spring wardrobe.

Yet, I still can't get over the nagging thought that only one person reviewed this pattern.  Is it just too new? Are people burned out from "another shirtwaist" pattern?

Is Mad Men as a fashion craze dead?

Do I care?

(no, because like I said: I'm just a rebel like that!)

What do you think?